Control

 Those  forces of surrounding white breaking wave  ,

leave us to surf the board , and not the rail and fins  . 

Steve  Masfellar  ,  Off The  Wall  .   1979  

Pipeline Cool

      Australian   Col Smith had his own imprint on Pipe .

Pipeline Cool  .

Sunset Point

                                               That   North Swell  hits  good  on Sunset Beach

                                         

 Shaun  Tomson  at  Sunset Beach ,  Hawaii 

Arm / hand in the Wave

Lately , I noticed that many of the best surfers use their trailing arm 

or hand to  'sense'  the wave ,

  and ,  slow the board speed in the tube .

Shaun Tomson .  Off  The  Wall ,  Hawaii