12/6/17

Insight On The Inside




                                          Bobby Owens , one of the best Sunset Beach regulars
                                had a knowledge   of  inside Sunset that helped his timing off the top .












11/26/17

Grateful





                                                   Thankful  for  a  great  day  in  Hawaii









8/14/17

A Bow




                                           Don't forget to bow to Mother Ocean










                                                                     No   ID .
                                                           Looks like Summer , Oahu





Turn Timing




                  Natural surfers have a sense of where to place turns in chaotic , or smooth conditions .





                       
                               Butch Perriera leans in to project onto wave at Sunset Beach , late '70s









4/29/17

New Design


                 

               

                       The board volume , rocker , templates were  ever changing in the late '70s .





                                             

                                                              Critta takes advantage of new tech ...









4/22/17

Good news , Bad news ;

                 


              In the course of a Day  surfing , you might get some Good news , and some Bad news .






                                                   
                                                         Critta Byrne  , out under the lip .
                               
                                Just in Time :   Good news / didn't break my knee , ankle , or board .
   
                                Out in Time :   Bad news / 'bout to get blown up , maybe scrape the reef .







3/21/17

mind surf this








                                                       Pipeline ,  Hawaii ' 70s






Cheater Five

     

                                     The ' Cheater Five ' was a longboard stance in the Sixties .
 
                                         We used it again on short Single Fins in the Seventies .





Peter Townend on the front and back deep in Off The Wall tube .
Hawaii ' 78