4/3/18
2/7/18
1/12/18
12/6/17
Insight On The Inside
Bobby Owens , one of the best Sunset Beach regulars
had a knowledge of inside Sunset that helped his timing off the top .
11/26/17
8/14/17
Turn Timing
Natural surfers have a sense of where to place turns in chaotic , or smooth conditions .
Butch Perriera leans in to project onto wave at Sunset Beach , late '70s
4/29/17
New Design
The board volume , rocker , templates were ever changing in the late '70s .
Critta takes advantage of new tech ...
4/22/17
Good news , Bad news ;
In the course of a Day surfing , you might get some Good news , and some Bad news .
Critta Byrne , out under the lip .
Just in Time : Good news / didn't break my knee , ankle , or board .
Out in Time : Bad news / 'bout to get blown up , maybe scrape the reef .
3/21/17
Cheater Five
The ' Cheater Five ' was a longboard stance in the Sixties .
We used it again on short Single Fins in the Seventies .
Peter Townend on the front and back deep in Off The Wall tube .
Hawaii ' 78
12/31/16
Snapshot : Paul Neilsen
Australian Paul Neilsen was one of the first Aussies to compete in Hawaii .
Won the '72 Smirnoff Pro
Rocky Point , Hawaii . 1977
12/13/16
11/30/16
Motor Drive
Shooting from the water it was an advantage to have a motor drive camera to advance the film .
Not necessarily for sequences , but so that you did not have to take the housing away from your eye in focusing , composition , and timing .
Sunset Beach , Hawaii Bobby Owens '79
10/13/16
' Off - Day '
Remember the quiet days when the swell was medium
and the direction was not optimum .
Pipeline on an ' Off- Day ' . Some close-outs , some good ones .
Not many surfers around .
Getting the view , Jackie Dunn .
7/30/16
6/23/16
4/20/16
Better Surfers
Better Surfers make the waves better .
They also make their fellow surfers better .
Mark Liddell surf skates into the cutback at Velzyland .
2/4/16
A Pipeline Master
Michael Ho in the ' 77 Pipeline Masters .
Innate wave knowledge .
Sure to Win in the coming years .
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