Good news , Bad news ;

                 


              In the course of a Day  surfing , you might get some Good news , and some Bad news .

                                                   
                                                         Critta Byrne  , out under the lip .
                               
                                Just in Time :   Good news / didn't break my knee , ankle , or board .
   
                                Out in Time :   Bad news / 'bout to get blown up , maybe scrape the reef .

mind surf this

                                                       Pipeline ,  Hawaii ' 70s

Cheater Five

     

                                     The ' Cheater Five ' was a longboard stance in the Sixties .
 
                                         We used it again on short Single Fins in the Seventies .

Peter Townend on the front and back deep in Off The Wall tube .

Hawaii ' 78