Winding walls at Sunset , Terry Richardson Australia
Many times it wasn't the ripping moves , or tube rides .
Simply , how much distance was Covered .
Especially , back to the wall .
Reno had these cutbacks wired in big surf , he was better in big surf .
Using a martial stance , and longer , very clean self-shaped boards .
So much water , moving fast , cutbacks can be tricky if the wave surges . Point of attack too high , or center of gravity not low enough = Pitchout Time .
Here's Merk with the venerable Century 1000mm ( many classic images ) , and also using the reliable Nikon F2 w/motor . You were taken to a different commitment if you saw what Merkel , Barbour , King , Chang , and others were doing . ( Probably left someone out ) . Merkel was a workhorse , relentless . Barbour was calculated , and precise . After those guys , why worry , Go Get some great shots !
Oh Yeah . P. S . : without those 2 photographers , SURFING MAGAZINE would not exist ....
On a North swell at Sunset Beach , the inside can ledge , then start peeling towards the end Bowl . The tube shape shifts towards the channel , some great memories are made , and shutdowns are another swim . Imperfect , but exhilarating .
Late afternoon Fly-by . If you don't get taken out by un-calculated shifted peaks , there are smooth inside walls to be had . More caution needed to mitigate the roiling Ocean bubbles , yet the single fin , drawn pintail boards had their advantages .
Strong and innovative young surfer Kaluhiokalani at the Larry Bertlemann Invitational on a perfect day at one perfect spot . The face of surfing , and it's future changed with every ride , expression , and commitment for something else that had never been done .
After the fuel crisis of 1974 , airline fares became affordable - California to Hawaii .
The Californians outnumbered , the other Wintering surfers .
A small group of Floridians , a larger aggregate of Australians , some South Africans , and even a couple of Brazilians filled in the everchanging line-ups . Probably left some out , point is that Back Then , who would have thought that a Frenchman ( Jeremy Flores 2010 ) would win The Pipeline Masters .
Amazing - the high level WorldWide surfing , surf media , and the surf industry , Nowadays
Heavy Trades make for majestic surfing at Sunset Beach .
Comparing Apples to Oranges : the surf can be good at both Pipeline and Sunset , yet Sunset can be great when Pipeline is not .