11/30/14

Control




 Those  forces of surrounding white breaking wave  ,

leave us to surf the board , and not the rail and fins  . 







Steve  Masfellar  ,  Off The  Wall  .   1979  








11/20/14

Pipeline Cool



      Australian   Col Smith had his own imprint on Pipe .





Pipeline Cool  .






11/11/14

Sunset Point





                                               That   North Swell  hits  good  on Sunset Beach



                                         


 Shaun  Tomson  at  Sunset Beach ,  Hawaii 





11/6/14

Arm / hand in the Wave




Lately , I noticed that many of the best surfers use their trailing arm 
or hand to  'sense'  the wave ,
  and ,  slow the board speed in the tube .





Shaun Tomson .  Off  The  Wall ,  Hawaii 





10/22/14

The Stall





The  Stall ,  when your board  is  built to  Fly





Chris  Hawk  on   Rocky  Rights  .

  Kickin'  it .




10/14/14

Clean Lines




The  Single  Fin  with certain lines , held in . 

 ( Underwater _ O.T.W.   '79 ) 





And ,   surfed  rather well .  





10/12/14

Experience pays

 

The PipeDog  known  as  Rory Russell has the   Experience 

to  surf all  North Shore   breaks 








And ,  it  pays .  


Switchfoot at Sunset Beach , Hawaii 










10/6/14

Aussies rip

                       


The Bronzed  Aussie   rips 






Cheyne Horan  in  the  flow . 

Off the Wall ,   ' 78 







10/3/14

Neutral--Forward

                       

     
 Shaun Tomson demonstrates the stance of Neutral--Forward in  driving down the line .



 


Very stable in the tube and thru cascading sections ,
always using the rail line for acceleration .






9/27/14

Every Swell




Good surfers are on  every swell   to stay fit  , and try  new boards .





Mark Foo  .   Rocky Lefts 






9/13/14

Keep On



Keep On    keepin'  on 




Life  is  short  . 

S D  surfer   Chris  O'Rourke  at   V-Land 









9/6/14

360 º Rotation




Buttons Kaluhiokalani     Kaisers ' 77    






                                                      In  rotation of the   fin-free  360º  move .

                                               Comfortable surfing in reverse  for a few seconds



8/21/14

Sun Drenched

 


surf ,  sun  and  sky 





Buttons Kaluhiokalani  @   South Shore , Oahu 

Aloha 






8/16/14

7/24/14

Wish I still had that board ...



How many times  have older surfers said that to themselves ?





 My brand spankin' new     Brewer 6' 8 "  . 
( Can't remember who shaped it ) . 
Mid seventies , the backyard   Velzyland house . 



 THE side benefit to surf photography is that you catch a ton of waves on the off-days . 




7/11/14

7/3/14

Cutback then switchStance

 

Buttons  Kaluhiokalani   makes the cutback at


     



      Velzyland ,   then rides through with the opposite Stance .


                                              Cool stuff







6/24/14

Summer !




Try  new  stuff .  It's  Summer ! 




Switchfoot .

Mark Liddell  at  Ala Moana 






6/17/14

Down the Beach




                               The sheer fun of catching a peak to yourself ,  down the beach .




   Col Smith   •  Hawaii   •   1978






                     

5/8/14

Surf session




 Every surf session is useful .
 Every surf we learn something about the board , a wave ,  or about ourselves .




 Tom Carroll . ' 78 , Rocky Lefts  . 

Destined for surfing greatness . 









4/23/14

Punch



Style  can  be  Smooth .     Driven . 

And ,  then  there is  Punchy . 







Aussie  Critta Byrne , getting  a lick in , or  two   @ Off  The Wall ,  Hawaii . 





4/8/14

Pause .



You made the Drop .   You have the Speed .    And , you are slotted in the Bowl .

Now , you bend the knees - lean in - and project down the Wall . 







Mike Germain ,  Sunset Beach .  ' 80 





3/29/14

The Bash




 sometimes , you give the  wave and  board a little  more  in the   Bash .




Mark  Richards   w/ TwinFin  at OTW ,  Hawaii





3/15/14

TwinFin heavy




    Mark Richards  stands on the TwinFin .  Confident .




Heavy 






3/11/14

Over the Edge

                     


                                                 M R  pushing the  Twin Fin  over the  Edge 






                                                             High performance  at  O. T. W.





2/26/14

Top turning



Mark Liddell  on an Aipa Stinger . 
Close-up shows the Fin , tail / wing setup .




Not a technically good photo .  But it was in that Time .

Velzyland 




2/12/14

2/6/14

Buzzy Kerbox . Pipeline Masters , 1978








         Single  fin  surfing at  Pipe  and other  Breaks  required 
 point position ,  then  natural  tube turns .







1/21/14

Soul Sacrifice



         ! F f  U  O  # 2 6 &^5 ! 


                                       


     

Board   Gone  .        Hell  ,     I'm  Still  Alive   ...










1/18/14

Split - Second




In big surf  , your  split - second decisions ,  make the Difference __




between ,   paddling back out  or  serious injury for the rest of the season .

Bruce Hansel makes his escape , then hopes for a good landing .



1/6/14

Respect

     


Original   Pipeliners    were always   Respected  .





Mike  Armstrong .  Pipe  '77