Insight On The Inside

                                          Bobby Owens , one of the best Sunset Beach regulars
                                had a knowledge   of  inside Sunset that helped his timing off the top .



                                                   Thankful  for  a  great  day  in  Hawaii


A Bow

                                           Don't forget to bow to Mother Ocean

                                                                     No   ID .
                                                           Looks like Summer , Oahu

Turn Timing

                  Natural surfers have a sense of where to place turns in chaotic , or smooth conditions .

                               Butch Perriera leans in to project onto wave at Sunset Beach , late '70s


New Design



                       The board volume , rocker , templates were  ever changing in the late '70s .


                                                              Critta takes advantage of new tech ...


Good news , Bad news ;


              In the course of a Day  surfing , you might get some Good news , and some Bad news .

                                                         Critta Byrne  , out under the lip .
                                Just in Time :   Good news / didn't break my knee , ankle , or board .
                                Out in Time :   Bad news / 'bout to get blown up , maybe scrape the reef .


mind surf this

                                                       Pipeline ,  Hawaii ' 70s

Cheater Five


                                     The ' Cheater Five ' was a longboard stance in the Sixties .
                                         We used it again on short Single Fins in the Seventies .

Peter Townend on the front and back deep in Off The Wall tube .
Hawaii ' 78