6/29/11

Another take : Reno Abellira @ Sunset Beach

At Sunset , with a few degrees in swell direction ,  the wall could  line-up  right off the peak .
Full speed ahead  ,  maneuvers will wait ,  and you might want to exit  before the Bowl .  

6/27/11

The world famous , big wave surfer Reno Abellira , puts the full schralp On Sunset , 1977

Reno had these cutbacks wired in big surf ,  he was better in big surf .  
 Using a martial stance ,  and  longer , very  clean  self-shaped boards .

6/26/11

Afternoon Sunset Beach , South African Michael Tomson

So much water  , moving fast ,  cutbacks can  be tricky if the wave surges .  Point of attack too high ,  or center of gravity not low enough  =  Pitchout Time .   

6/24/11

Dan Merkel , SURFING MAGAZINE

Make No Mistake .   Surf photogs were relatively few , but the late '70s were  Competitive .
Here's Merk with the venerable Century 1000mm ( many classic images ) , and also using the reliable Nikon F2 w/motor . You were taken to a different commitment if you saw what Merkel , Barbour , King , Chang , and others were doing . ( Probably left someone out ) . Merkel was a workhorse ,  relentless .   Barbour was calculated , and precise .    After those guys , why worry ,   Go Get some great shots !
Oh Yeah .   P. S . :  without those 2 photographers , SURFING MAGAZINE would not exist ....

The Bowl setup by Mark Liddell , Hawaii

On a North swell at Sunset Beach , the inside can ledge , then start peeling towards the end Bowl . The tube shape shifts towards the channel , some great memories are made , and shutdowns are another swim .        Imperfect , but exhilarating .

6/22/11

Speed-arc on Sunset . Australian , Terry Fitzgerald

Late afternoon Fly-by . If you don't get taken out by un-calculated shifted peaks , there are smooth inside walls to be had .  More caution needed to mitigate the roiling Ocean bubbles , yet the single fin ,  drawn pintail boards had their advantages . 

6/20/11

Jeff Hakman at Off The Wall . '75

Hawaii legend , and Sunset Beach great represented modern surfing with consistency , wave knowledge , and fluid rail-to-rail turns . 

6/17/11

Waimea Bay '75 , Mark Warren

Think this is the Smirnoff Pro/Am .
Pro surfer Mark Warren ( Australia ) .   In to it ,  and sizing the wall . 
Conditions :   Sun-drenched and  Cool

6/16/11

Pipeline Master starbolts the tube .

Rory Russell on a Lightning Bolt in the perfect place .
That time of day , when tide is right , trades slow ,  and the light and water message their Alohas .

6/15/11

Buttons Kaluhiokalani flying thru a section in great Velzyland , 1975



Strong and innovative young surfer Kaluhiokalani at the Larry Bertlemann Invitational on a perfect day at one perfect spot   . The face of surfing , and it's future changed with every ride , expression , and commitment for something else that had never been done .







6/12/11

Early season Tune-Up . Auzzie Bruce Raymond , Sunset Point , October 1975

After the fuel crisis of 1974 , airline fares became affordable - California to Hawaii .
The Californians outnumbered , the other Wintering surfers .
A small group of Floridians , a larger aggregate of Australians , some South Africans , and even a couple of Brazilians filled in the everchanging line-ups . Probably left some out , point is  that Back Then , who would have thought that a Frenchman ( Jeremy Flores 2010 ) would win The Pipeline Masters .
Amazing - the high level WorldWide surfing , surf media , and the surf industry ,  Nowadays

6/10/11

Barry Kanaiapuni , Sunset Beach , The Hang Ten , 1975

Heavy Trades make for majestic surfing at Sunset Beach . 
Comparing Apples to Oranges : the surf can be good at both Pipeline and Sunset , yet Sunset can be great when Pipeline is not .

6/9/11

The Christmas swell of 1975 .


Gerry Lopez swoops off the bottom of Pipeline .
Super clean glass , perfect Ocean going morning .